Elevation: 11,700 to 12,300 ft
Elevation Gain: 850 ft total with 250 ft of additional up and downs.
Critters: Golden Eagle, White Crowned Sparrow, Jack the rock hound
Square Top Lakes is a short tundra hike to two alpine lakes with incredible views. The entire trail is above treeline so all the usual precautions are necessary. Don’t forget the sunscreen and hat and watch the weather.
I chose this hike for the first hike of the 4th of July weekend because I needed to get my 15 year-old dog out for a short hike that was not overly rocky. Last year I had made it to the lower lake but ended up jogging back to the car as the thunder rolled overhead. On this trip, the skies stayed clear and I was able to lounge at the upper lake for an hour or more. There I saw a Golden Eagle flying against the mountainside. Even with my telephoto lens it was merely a spec against the expanse of rock.
Western Sky Pilot (Polemonium viscosum). Also known as Skunkweed or Jacob's Ladder. It grows at high altitudes on dry rocky sites.
The trailhead for Square Top Lakes is at the apex of Guanella Pass. The lower parking lot is full of Bierstadt climbers and the upper lot contains overflow. Both lots have nice new bathrooms.
The trail descends 100 ft into a small valley where is crosses a creek on a series of wooden bridges. It then rises quickly to a large rocky knoll. There were Buddhist payer flags strung across the rocks here and another hiker told me someone had died in an avalanche there.
From this knoll, the trail descends another 100 ft before rising to the first lake. This lake is pretty, but the view from the upper lake is even better. Both lakes are nestled at the base of Square Top Mountain. The trail for that summit forks left half way up the trail to the upper lake. That climb looks like a pleasant diversion and some day I’ll pop up there.
Wildflowers covered the tundra and at one point I tried to estimate their distribution. It seemed like there was one flower every six inches or so. I lost count of the number of species present but white and yellow seemed to be the predominate colors. On the broad shelf that borders the upper lake, tiny tundra flowers sprouted in crevices of every rock. I need to get myself a magnifying glass so I can examine these more closely.
On my way back down I lingered at the lower lake for a few moments. There I met Jack, a Chesapeake Bay Retrieve/Lab mix. This dog looked more like a Grizzly Bear than dog and he was shuffling through the water of the lake backwards shaking his hindquarters in a most un-lady like manner. The owners said he was trying to loosen rocks on the bottom with his front paws. This activity, combined with piteous whines was a site to behold. Occasionally, Jack would thrust the upper half of his body underwater like a duck feeding on grass and come up spouting. At last, we saw Jack bound out of the water with a 10-pound rock in his mouth. I wish I were so easily entertained. Still, if I were caught moving my hindquarters in a similar manner, I would be arrested for disturbing the peace!
This is a great time to check out this trail, but go early so you won’t have to run from the thunderstorms, which can pop up very quickly on Guanella Pass.
